1. Learn Yoga. Being able to spend hours curled up comfortably into a tight space will be an obvious advantage, particularly if you are tall.
2. Adopt an attitude of Eastern fatalism or Australian blase / irony towards life.
3. Have a poor nights sleep, as few hours as possible.
4. When you get up, dress calmly and take a travacalm. These have the double advantage of anti-nausea and drowsiness.
5. When you get on the minibus, sit as far to the back as possible. You do not want to see what is coming.
6. Refrain from watching the road as much as possible. You do not have access to any brakes so don't pretend you do.
7. Fall asleep as soon as possible into the trip waking only for toilet stops, meal stops and the occasional unmade / rocky / goat, pig, cow covered bit of road. Not only are you less likely to hit your head on the ceiling, you should arrive at your destination feeling calm and refreshed.
Yep, we made it back to Luoshui. And apart from the first step, that is exactly how I made the trip. Scott was a bit sore due to lack of leg room. We will go to Yongning in the morning, there are more buses then. We've got a room for the night at the Husi Teahouse. It is a bit primitive, the toilet seems to be down an alley down the back. However, they have installed sensor lights so that the light comes on as you get down there, and turns off just as you are squatting on the toilet. Then you have to clap so that it comes back on. The bedroom is cold but the mattress is almost soft and there is a sensational view of the lake and the Goddess Gemu (mountain). When we arrived we both had a stiff drink of light beer and went to have a look at the Mosuo cultural museum while we are still here in Luoshui. It was quite well done. They basically walk you through a traditional Mosuo house (no one lives there now of course) and tell you about a lot of the traditions and lifestyle, etc. It was beautifully warm around the hearth in the lounge, and in the young woman's chamber there were examples of gifts from admirers hanging on the walls, generally jewelry and stuffed animals. I wonder if Scott will take up taxidermy so he can present me with gifts. Apparently the men sleep downstairs in the barn with the animals (when not visiting girlfriends). Sounds like a fairly strong incentive to me. Ok see ya guys.
Tuesday, December 21, 2004
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