Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Happy New Year!

Xin Nian Kuai Le!

Well I'm already enjoying the new year apart from some dramatics this morning...

But first let me tell you about yesterday. I went around and did some interviews in Zhudi village in the morning. Successful, even though I had to conduct two of them in Mosuo language- Tricky, but I managed it. After lunch I went for a beautiful walk around the next lake across (there are several small lakes near Zhudi) and through the hills around there. Got back and our home was packed with people. Apparently a tour bus had elected to stay at the house where I am living. There were a couple of French women in the group so we had a good chat. The tour group and myself ate dinner together and then the family and neighbouring villages put on a dance and bonfire for the guests (for a reasonable fee) in our courtyard. The family and neighbours all got dressed up and someone played a local kind of flute and everyone danced. My circle dancing is starting to improve and I can keep in step in a few of the dances now. When they stopped dancing and started singing I went up to the older sister in the family and asked her why she hadn't dressed up. She explained she was too busy, and then dragged me off to her bedroom to dress me in her costume. We are the same height and build so it fitted well.

Mosuo dress involves a long white pleated skirt, a long sleeved brightly coloured satin shirt with a wide brightly coloured sash at the waist. On your head you wear a head dress which is made of strands of black nylon to look like plaited hair in a circle around the head, with a long bunch that hangs straight down like hair. This is decorated with beads and pink flowers. I walked out in my long skirt with my new black hair and everyone laughed and clapped. The tourists thought it was great and my family here were all smiling. A girl introduced me as a Mosuo girl and then several people tried to get me to sing something- which I refused. You will understand if you've ever heard me sing. One of the local guys told me I looked very pretty. Then we did some more dancing and I managed to keep in step most of the time. The whole thing was pretty funny. I took some photos and got changed again. The other highlight of my day was some dark French orange chocolate that one of the French girls gave me.

Today is New Years Eve and as I had promised another family several weeks ago to spend New Years with them, I prepared to go. I had told the family in Zhudi this at least 50 times, but this morning they were still trying to convince me to spend New Years with them. They refused to understand that I was already committed and mother put on a huge drama, putting on a hurt expression and turning her face away from me. I left some presents with one of the younger women and left. If bullying is hospitality, well... I had told them firmly for nearly three weeks that I was spending New Years with some other friends so I don't know why they were surprised. They were even saying that it would ruin their New Year and they couldn't enjoy their celebrations if I left. Bloody ridiculous.

My day improved upon arriving in Lige. I was hungry because the family had been to busy to notice that I couldn't eat the oily gooey thing that they gave me to eat for breakfast. I arrived at the guest house and my friend was there and she said "I'm starving, I've got some lamb stew in the pan, lets go and eat it!" I could have kissed her feet after two months of pork. Haven't eaten lamb since Australia. Stuffed myself with lamb, potato, greens and soup. Aaaaah.

Then I went into the village and the youth hostel let me use their hot, hot shower. So I have eaten lamb and I am clean and in clean clothes and feeling quite content. I feel like my new year is already complete! Now I might just go wash some clothes as it is a sunny day. Yep, sounds like a plan. Tonight we are going to visit the couple's respective families, etc. Should be good. Probably involve alcohol, food and dancing. bye for now.

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