Ma and Yima (Mother and Mother one / Aunty)

Well, Mum and Aunty Connie arrived at Lijiang airport on Saturday night. We got a taxi into town and dumped all their stuff in our room, before going for a walk around old town. They were very excited to experience their first evening in China, and we strolled through the crowded streets while they poked their heads into souvenir shops and took photos and talked and giggled a lot. Then we sat down in a little restaurant called Hakuna Matata for some Chinese food and I told her my news. Scott was down in Mordialloc the same night telling his mother the same news. That was quite exciting.

Sunday morning we took the wine and cheese that I had talked mum into carrying on the plane, and went down to Black Dragon Park. Wandered around for a bit - Mum paid five yuan and got to hold a monkey in her hand while we took a photo. Then we hired a little rowboat, rowed out to a pagoda in the middle of the lake there, tied up and sat down and enjoyed our wine and cheese.

Monday we did a bit more shopping (can't keep them out of the shops) and then climbed up the hill in old town to visit a large tower on top. Walked around there a bit and relaxed and enjoyed the spectacular view over Lijiang. In the evening Mum and Connie got dressed up and went out to the Naxi orchestra. More shopping (especially window shopping) before and after- Mum's quote for the day: "I like a bit of sensuality in statues".

Tuesday, we had an early start, packed our bags, bought some mantou (steamed buns) and then jumped on a bus up to Lugu lake. That was an interesting experience for them and they spent a lot of time trying to take photos out the window of plunging gorges, rustic villages and cows, goats and pigs crossing the road in front of us. The squat toilets with metre high barriers and no doors were quite a talking point. I think they were a little nervous on some of the single-lane, hairpin-bend, unmade-road, oncoming-truck sections. Can't imagine why.

I think the view of the lake made up for it though. In the evening we went to watch (and join in) some Mosuo dancing in the village of Lige. Aunty Connie met a handsome young Mosuo man called Erche and suddenly started asking lots of questions about walking marriage...

Wednesday we went to Zhudi, where I have spent quite a bit of time. Joined the family for lunch. They were very warm and friendly. We took lots of photos and the mother took Mum and Connie out into the barn to feed the pigs. They had a little of her homemade rice wine to drink too! Had to take Mum and Connie out into the backyard to have a pee. Mum was heard to say "I never thought I'd see the day when I'd look forward to a squat toilet". As you can see, they are adapting very quickly.

In the afternoon we went into Yongning so I could introduce them to my latest conquest: the lama at the monastery. Then, visited another friend and wandered through the markets. Went back to the guesthouse for dinner and a Dali beer.

This morning my Norwegian friend talked me into getting up at 5.30am and climbing a mountain so we could go to a village to see another Mosuo funeral. Similar to last time, except they also gave us lollies. Were home by 8.45 and starving (poor foot was aching). Had a relaxing day sitting around the courtyard and chatting. Just had noodles and a beer for lunch. They are bargaining for handmade scarves and we are going out to tea tonight with friends.